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Bright, juicy, clean and tart. The humble lemon is a versatile heavyweight in the culinary world, adding a vibrant freshness that compliments the sweet and savory. While typically only the juice of the lemon is consumed, it is the yellow rind that contains all of the fragrant oils. The challenge is getting the flavor locked in the rind. Peeling or grating the rind will release some of that lemon essence, but if more of a bite is needed, preserved lemons are the way to go.
A staple in North African and Middle Eastern cuisine, preserved lemons are whole lemons that have been packed in salt and pickled in their own juice. After a few weeks in jars, the lemons become an altogether different fruit. The pulp becomes smooth and jam-like, the rind translucent with a smooth, silky texture. The entire fruit is edible, though some like to remove the white pith as it retains a touch of bitterness.
Preserved lemons are available at some of the fancier markets, often with a pretty label and a steep price tag, but it's probably easier to make at home than to locate it in a store. The pickling process is easier, because the lemon juice and salt prevent bacteria from growing, so the jars don't need to be sealed or refrigerated.
Like most good things, it requires a long wait - around a month for the lemons to fully soften. At this point, the lemons are preserved and will keep at room temperature for up to a year, though some people keep their jars refrigerated anyway. For those with less patience, freezing and thawing the lemons can shorten the process to one night. The results aren't exactly the same, but are comparable if you can't wait.
As for what to do with the lemons after they've been preserved, the first thing is to take a bite. After appropriately savoring the burst of flavor, you can add the lemons to lamb or chicken stews, chop it up and cook it with rice or couscous, mince it up to a paste and add to salad dressing, or toss it with olive oil and pasta. The ideas will suggest themselves.
Preserved Lemons
Ingredients 12 lemons Kosher salt 3 one-pint canning or mason jars
Directions
Soak the lemons in a bowl of water overnight to soften the rinds. The next day the lemons should be scrubbed under running water and then sliced into quarters lengthwise, leaving them attached at one end. Working over a bowl to catch the juice, pack a couple tablespoons of salt into the quarters. Save the juice, and reform the lemon, then set them aside, and continue with the remaining fruit. Pour a quarter-inch layer of salt into each of the jars and pack the lemons into the jars, alternating with layers of salt. Pour in the reserved juice, adding more to cover the lemons if necessary. Screw on the lids, and let the jars sit on the counter for several weeks, shaking them every now and then. The lemons are ready when the rinds are slightly translucent and the pith readily peels away. The lemons can then be stored on the counter or in the refrigerator for up to a year. Makes three one-pint jars.
Overnight Preserved Lemons
Ingredients 6 lemons Kosher salt 1 one-pint canning or mason jar
Directions
The lemons and the jar should be thoroughly washed and dried, then slice four lemons an eighth-inch thick, and juice the remaining two. Put a quarter-inch layer of salt into the jar, then alternate lemon slices with about a tablespoon of salt. Pour in the lemon juice to cover, screw on the lids, and place in the freezer overnight. The lemons should be thawed out the following day and used over the next week. Makes a one-pint jar.
Wheatberry Salad and Preserved Lemons
Ingredients 1 cup dried wheatberries 1 1?4 cups water 1 medium zucchini, diced 1 medium tomato, diced 1 quarter of a preserved lemon, finely chopped 1 small bunch parsley, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon brine from preserved lemons
Directions In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil with a pinch of salt. Add the wheatberries to the water and cover. Then reduce the heat to a simmer, and let it cook for about 10 minutes until the wheatberries are tender. While the wheatberries are hot, toss them in a bowl with the remaining ingredients, then taste the salad and add salt and pepper as desired. Let the salad sit for five minutes for the flavors to combine. Serves two as a very hearty lunch or four as a side.
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