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More meat, none of the frills

Austin boasts two impressive barbecue joints east of IH-35

By Solomon Wang

Daily Texan Staff

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Published: Friday, October 9, 2009

Updated: Friday, October 9, 2009

Brian Mays

Peyton McGee/The Daily Texan

Brian Mays plays chess with a friend inside Sam’s Bar-B-Que Thursday night.

Joseph Hawkins

Peyton McGee/The Daily Texan

Joseph Hawkins, owner of J. Kelly’s Barbecue, slices brisket in his restaurant Thursday.

Everyone knows about the great Salt Lick Bar-B-Que and the prominent Rudy’s “Country Store” and Bar-B-Q, which has many locations in Austin. What meat fanatics are missing out on, though, is authentic hole-in-the-wall barbecue. Luckily, a handful of these no-frills meat joints are just across the highway in East Austin.

J. Kelly’s BBQ

900 E. 11th St., Hours and menu at jkellysbbq.com.

After 27 years under the name Ben’s Longbranch Inn, this humble barbecue joint still offers some killer choices to bust your diet. If the weather’s nice, enjoy your succulent selections on the outdoor picnic patio.

The options here are served the old-fashioned way — you head through the cafeteria-style line before telling the cashier what you want.

For hungry first-timers, the four-meat plate is a necessity. At $12.99, it’s a bargain, as you also get a choice of two sides (options include baked beans, coleslaw and potato salad).

Meat choices are chicken, brisket, ribs and sausage. Normally, ordering chicken at a barbecue joint isn’t advised, but J. Kelly’s definitely smokes an outrageously juicy bird.

Brisket and ribs, the staples on which barbecue is normally judged, may not be their forte, but they still won’t disappoint. The real gem at J. Kelly’s is the sausage, exploding with liquid grease upon your first bite. How can you go wrong? The one thing you should do to best savor your meat, however, is to avoid the restaurant’s overly sweet sauce.

J. Kelly’s also offers banana pudding and peach cobbler for dessert, with the banana pudding being the top choice. It’s the perfect conclusion to this deeply satisfying meal.

 

Sam’s Bar-B-Que

2000 E. 12th St., Call (512)478-0378 for hours

Upon entering Sam’s Bar-B-Que, the first things you notice are the signed photographs of famous singers, athletes and UT alumni, all of whom have dropped in for some Sam’s smoky goodness.

In confirmation of this display of star-studded endorsements, the meat here is sure to satisfy — and at a reasonable price. For about $7, you can get a meat sandwich and two sides. Inside the small booths which occupy the comfortably cozy house, you sit and wait for your selected meat to be served on butcher paper.

Stick with the ribs here since they have some of the smokiest flavor you’ll find anywhere. Gnawing around a smoky bone is a joy not to be overlooked in life.

Lean brisket, though a bit dry, is offered here, so for those non-purists who enjoy healthier barbecue options, this is your place. As a complement to the meat, the tomato-based sauce is a nice change from the traditional smoky sauce. It has a nice tanginess without being too sweet.

For more adventurous eaters, Sam’s also serves mutton, or sheep meat. With a very gamey flavor, mutton definitely requires an acquired taste. But for those who do enjoy it, mutton can be quite a treat; tender, hearty and flavorful, it’s definitely the dark horse on this limited menu.

Located on the less fortunate 12th Street, Sam’s offers more of a rustic atmosphere than most.
 

However, the barbecue joint’s late hours (open some nights until 1 a.m.) make this spot indispensible for satisfying those midnight munchies.
 

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